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ASCNDAthletics

Fabrics

Every material.
Named, not hinted at.

Every item states what it is made of and what it weighs, because those two numbers tell you more about how something will feel and last than any adjective does — a fibre content and a gsm for the textiles, a wall construction for the flask, a durometer and a drop for the shoes. Here is what each material is for, and, more usefully, what will ruin it.

Recycled Tech Jersey

145gsm

Recycled polyester knitted with a small share of elastane, finished to move sweat off the skin and dry fast. It is the lightest thing here and the least forgiving: it shows a wet patch sooner than cotton does, and a light colourway will show it plainly. That is a property of the fabric, not a fault in the garment, and every light tech colourway says so on its page.

What it is for

Hot rooms and conditioning work. Dries in under an hour on a hanger.

What ruins it

Fabric softener, which coats the fibre and stops it moving sweat at all. Then heat: a hot tumble dry sets creases into the elastane that never come out.

Long-staple combed cotton in a fine rib. It holds its shape through the shoulder better than a flat jersey and recovers after a wash instead of growing. It is heavier and slower to dry than tech jersey by design — this is the fabric for lifting and for the rest of the day, not for a conditioning session.

What it is for

Lifting, and the rest of the day afterwards. Holds the shoulder line instead of growing at the neck.

What ruins it

A warm wash and a hot dryer, which together cost it up to half an inch of length. Velcro, which pulls the rib into a run.

A heavy loopback fleece brushed on the inside face. It is warm, it is dense, and it is the one fabric here that will visibly relax with wear — cuffs and hem soften and the body drops slightly in the first month, which is what a good hoodie is supposed to do. Anything sold as fleece that does not do this is stiff for a reason.

What it is for

A cold gym and the walk to it. The heaviest thing we make, and the one that softens most with wear.

What ruins it

A hot tumble dry, permanently — it takes the body and the inseam before it takes the sleeve. Sharing a wash with dark denim, if the colourway is Bone.

Knitted in the round on a circular machine, so the garment has no side seams at all — nothing to rub under a bar or a strap. The trade is fragility: a seamless knit will snag and run on a rough collar or a velcro strap, and a pulled thread in a seamless fabric cannot be repaired the way a seam can.

What it is for

Under everything else. No side seams at all, so there is nothing to rub under a bar or a strap.

What ruins it

Heat, which slackens the elastane for good, and chlorine, which does it faster than anything. A velcro hook face or a rough collar will snag it, and a run in a seamless fabric cannot be repaired the way a seam can.

A light four-way-stretch woven with a ripstop grid through it, used where a knit would go baggy. It sheds a scuff off a rack or a bench that would fluff a jersey, and it is noisier and less soft against the leg than a knit short. Nothing here is waterproof; a ripstop weave is about tear strength, not rain.

What it is for

Shorts and shells. Shrugs off a scuff from a bench or a rack that would fluff a knit, and does not bag at the knee.

What ruins it

An iron on the face, which flattens the ripstop grid. Sun-protection products, which bleach a permanent pale mark into a mid-tone colourway.

Open Mesh

90gsm

A wide-gauge knitted mesh used for panels and for the back of a cap, where airflow matters more than coverage. Held up to the light it is exactly as open as it looks — it is a ventilation panel, and it is placed where an item needs one rather than anywhere it would be decorative.

What it is for

Ventilation panels — the back of a cap, the upper back of a shell — where airflow beats coverage.

What ruins it

Anything with a hook or a burr. A snag in an open mesh becomes a hole and a hole spreads, so it is washed on its own and never with velcro.

Waffle Cotton

320gsm

Cotton woven in a waffle grid rather than looped into terry. It dries in a fraction of the time, which is the whole reason to choose it for something that lives in a gym bag, and it is markedly less plush than a terry towel. It also gets more absorbent over the first several washes as the mill finish comes off.

What it is for

A towel that lives in a gym bag. Dries in a fraction of the time terry does, so it never goes sour overnight.

What ruins it

Fabric softener, which blocks the weave and kills the absorbency outright. Self-tan and coloured drinks stain a Bone one permanently.

Nylon Webbing

1.5in wide

Flat woven nylon strap, bar-tacked at every load point. It does not stretch under load, which is the point, and it will abrade rather than tear — so a webbing item announces its wear as fraying at the edge long before it is close to failing. Keep it off a hot dryer; nylon glazes.

What it is for

Straps and handles. It does not stretch under load, and it frays visibly at the edge long before it is anywhere near failing.

What ruins it

A hot dryer. Nylon glazes, and glazed webbing is slick — which is the one thing a strap must never be. Bleach weakens it invisibly.

Vacuum-Insulated Stainless

430g at 32oz

Two walls of 18/8 stainless with the air pumped out from between them, so temperature transfers through the lid and the base rather than the body. It will not hold a drink cold forever and nothing that claims to is telling the truth; what it will do is stay cold for a full session without sweating onto the floor. It is not dishwasher-safe — heat and detergent kill the seal.

What it is for

Holding a drink cold for a full session without sweating onto the bench or the bottom of a bag.

What ruins it

A dishwasher. Heat and detergent are what break the seal between the walls, and a flask that has lost its vacuum never gets it back. Freezing cracks it; carbonation pressurises it.

Impact Copolyester

118g at 24oz

A clear impact-grade copolyester, BPA-free, used for the shaker body because it survives being dropped on a rubber floor in a way glass and brittle plastics do not. It scratches with time and it will hold a faint smell if you leave it sealed and full, both of which are properties of the material rather than faults in the item.

What it is for

Being dropped on a rubber floor. It survives the thing that finishes glass and brittle plastics.

What ruins it

Hot liquids, which it is not rated for and which make the seal weep. Leaving it sealed and full, which is how a shaker starts to hold a smell.

Moulded EVA & Rubber

19mm heel / 4mm drop

A compression-moulded EVA midsole on a solid rubber outsole. On the lifting shoe the midsole is deliberately dense and barely compresses — a soft sole under a heavy bar is the opposite of what you want — while the trainer runs a softer durometer for the walking and the conditioning either side of a session. Neither is a running shoe and neither pretends to be.

What it is for

Two different jobs. Dense and barely compressing under a heavy bar; softer and flatter for carries, machines and conditioning.

What ruins it

A washing machine and any direct heat — both separate the midsole from the outsole. Neither shoe is for running, and using one that way wears the outer forefoot through first.